Unlocking Radiant Skin: The Intricacies of Seed Oils and Skin Health
Seed oils have always been a topic of controversy in both nutrition and skincare circles.
From supporting skin barrier function to promoting wound healing and collagen formation, these oils offer a natural path to radiant skin. But there’s a lot of misunderstanding out there around its benefits and eco-credentials.
So we’ve partnered up with Victoria Marshall, an expert nutritional therapy practitioner, to help set the record straight when it comes to seed oils…
“As a nutritional therapy practitioner I see a lot of people that have persistent skin conditions such as acne, psoriasis, dry skin, eczema or even premature ageing of the skin that is affecting their self confidence. The skin is our biggest organ and its behaviour can be quite informative when it comes to learning about what’s going on inside our body. Some skin conditions can be a clear physical representation of a functional imbalance inside the body; it’s kind of like the body is waving a rescue flag saying, hey, somethings not going quite right here!
When looking to address a skin concern I would begin to consider what’s happening with various systems inside of the body. Some of these include; the gastrointestinal system, endocrine system (hormones), our liver health, adrenal health (stress response) and of course our inflammatory response (what our immune system is up to). However, as with most things in nature supporting a functional imbalance with diet is not always immediate, and takes time. Meanwhile, people may wish to address their skin health topically, which if using the right ingredients, can have a significant impact on localised skin cells.
Some skincare contains heavily processed and less desirable ingredients which may serve to improve shelf life or stabilise the product. However, many of us have become increasingly ingredient-led when it comes to selecting skincare and beauty products, meaning that we are often more self aware about what our products contain.
Seed oils used cosmetically and in food, have been a recent controversial topic. Good quality, cold-pressed, unrefined seeds oils are rich in vitamins, minerals, carotenoids, phenols, and tocopherols which have important antioxidant activity. However, seed oils are also used as a foundational ingredient in many processed foods and as frying oils; meaning that, even if it’s just by association, they have built up quite a reputation for themselves. But before we jump to conclusions to vilify them, let’s take a deeper dive into some of the differences between carefully produced seed oils and those which may have had substantial modification.
Seeds are nutrient powerhouses, enabling them to swiftly change and grow. They contain all the necessary ingredients to robustly build and construct new plant life. This means that seeds can be a healthy diet choice for those that choose to add them into their diet regime.
If it is well understood that seeds contain such potent nutrient content - then why the controversy I hear you ask…
I consider there to be three main issues with seed oils that have got them into hot water in the nutrition world. These are; the sheer quantity consumed, ultra processing and the intense heating. Omega-3 and Omega-6 are polyunsaturated essential fatty acids (PUFAS). The essential bit in their name just means that the human body cannot make them itself, and so it is important that we obtain enough of these through dietary means. Many different seeds contain both of these types of fatty acids, however, they can often be weighted more favourably in omega-6’s than omega-3’s. Western diets are especially high in omega-6, which can create an imbalance in the ratio of these two fatty acids. Up until around 100 years ago the omega-6 to omega-3 ratio was around 4:1, yet today it is closer to 20:1, respectively. Although omega-6 is really important for our health, having too much omega-6 and not enough omega-3 can create an imbalance which may contribute to issues such as increased chronic inflammation.
Another important factor is the manufacturing of seed oils. Producing seed oils on a very large scale can involve them being treated with solvents, having chemical extraction, and even being bleached - just to name a few of the mainstream processes. A significant disadvantage when processing seed oils is the substantial loss of the beneficial properties from the seeds. If all of this alone was not enough, we then take the seed oil and intensely heat it through deep frying or other high intensity heat cooking methods. This has been shown to release toxins which may have several detrimental effects, even with the potential to damage our DNA.
Cold-pressed, unrefined seed oils are worlds apart from their ultra processed counterparts. Unsaturated fatty acids are excellent for cellular function generally speaking as they improve cell membrane fluidity. We want a cell that is fluid and flexible, this can help support cell to cell communication through the receptors found on their surfaces.
Unrefined, cold-pressed sunflower seed oil can be a good addition to our diets in the right quantities, as well as in skincare. It contains vitamin E - an antioxidant that may protect from free radicals and help prevent wrinkles. The linoleic acid found in sunflower oil can also have quite an impact on skin barrier function. When applied topically it has been shown to enhance the barrier of the skin promoting skin barrier homeostasis (a state of balance). A super star seed oil (and a personal favourite of mine) is black seed cumin oil, also known as Nigella Sativa. This seed oil contains omega-3, omega-6 and omega-9 fatty acids, and has been shown to have potential for; antioxidant, antifungal, antimicrobial, anti-bacterial, and anti-inflammatory activity, as well as supporting collagen formation and wound healing. It can also be a good option for those with acne as it is non-comedogenic, which means it is less likely to cause blocked pores, whilst at the same time locking in moisture and providing an overall calming effect on the skin. This oil also has an exciting compound that has been rigorously scientifically studied called thymoquinone. This key active ingredient of black seed oil may have a wide spectrum of favourable effects, including wound healing, helping to improve certain dermatological conditions; as well as having suggested internal benefits such as helping to protect our liver and lung health.
The quality of cold-pressed seed oils vs commercially processed seed oils is incomparable. To strike the right balance for myself, I ensure that I get plenty of good quality omega-3 through my diet, usually in the form of wild caught fatty fish like salmon or sardines, as well as organic chia seeds or flaxseeds. I also try to limit the amount of processed foods I have (even the seemingly healthy ones) as they can be high in refined and ultra processed seed oils. With health optimisation in mind, I always aim for cold-pressed, unrefined oils across the board - both through my diet and in skincare.”
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